In a journey fraught with obstacles and losses, Abdou Aziz NDIAYE recounts the underlying reasons for his departure, the hardships he endured overland and at sea, and his difficult return along with the support he received.

What prompted you to undertake this journey, and how did the trip go?

I wanted to support my family financially. My friend Serigne Modou accompanied me. We set out on our journey on Gamou Day (Mawlid celebration) in 2023. We left Tivaouane and headed to the Beaux-Maraîchers station in Dakar, where we caught a bus for Tunisia via Mali and Algeria. We chose to travel by land after friends persuaded us that it was feasible. However, it was only once we were on the road that I realised how difficult it would be. During our journey from Mali to Tunisia, we had some terrible experiences. We suffered attacks and lost our belongings and money. When we arrived in Gao, we boarded another car to Algeria, where we stayed for two days without any news from my family. I hadn’t told my mother about my trip – only my father knew. It was in Tamaris that I was finally able to call my family and let them know that I was fine. Our journey took us through Debdeb. There were about 35 of us in a pick-up truck. At one point, we alighted and walked through the mountains to dodge police checks. The empty vehicle would meet us further on. During our journey, we had to pay a lot of money to travel to other towns. In Illizi, we got stuck because we couldn’t find a reliable transporter and ended up spending a fortnight in the town. Thanks to my brother, who knew some transporters, I was eventually connected with one of them, who took me to Tebessa. My friends and I then spent seven days in the mountains in freezing conditions, crossing the border into Tunisia.

What was daily life like for you as an irregular migrant in Tunisia?

Once we arrived there, our living conditions deteriorated significantly. Each traveller had to manage their own food supplies. Once our supplies ran out, we had to rely on the generosity of others or fend for ourselves. We carried packets of biscuits and a bottle of water and learnt not to eat all the time, in order to save money. In Tunisia, it took us four days to put together enough money to pay a smuggler to take us to Italy by canoe. The cost of transport varied depending on the migrants’ profiles. After paying, we were dropped off in a village where there was no accommodation. We slept outdoors, sometimes in the rain. Our diet consisted of biscuits and simple pasta dishes. We often skipped lunch and only ate dinner. A week later, on the night of our departure, Tunisian police raided our camp at Kilometre 19 just as we were about to board the canoes. Violent clashes broke out between the migrants and the police, leaving some people injured. A friend and I managed to escape and had to keep running between 6 a.m. and 5 p.m. before finally taking refuge in a canoe by the sea. However, we returned to the camp at night to get something to eat and spend the night there. The next day, we moved on to Kilometre 33, where we found migrants under pitched tents. However, the police raids and deportations to the desert continued. Despite the ban imposed by the Tunisian police authorities, some local shops discreetly sold food.

Did you finally make it to your destination in Italy or not?

No, but we did manage to board an Italy-bound pirogue. Unfortunately, we were hardly a few kilometres away, when the Tunisian navy spotted us and ordered us to stop. We tried to negotiate, but they refused outright. Despite the difficult weather conditions and the fact that our boat was made of metal, we tried to continue. The navy later called for reinforcements. During the chase at sea, the canoe took on water and sank. Fortunately, I did not fall into the water. The Navy rescued us and took us to the port, where we were detained in prison for about three hours. The police then arrived, handcuffed us and put us on buses. There were about 60 of us and we were taken to the border between Tunisia and Algeria. There, we were stripped naked and beaten before being abandoned in the mountains. I was with two other young Senegalese men: Fallou and Abou. We were extremely hungry and thirsty. Fallou went down the mountains to find something to drink, but unfortunately he got lost. After a few hours with no news from him, we decided to leave the mountains. That’s when we came into contact with a Senegalese woman with whom we left the mountains together. We spent two days roaming the mountains, with no shoes or resources. At one point, the woman was exhausted and could no longer continue. Abou and I had to leave her behind to scout for water. We found water in a field and were able to drink. After that, I poured some water onto the sand and ate it to fill my stomach.

Did you eventually return to Senegal or remain in Algeria after the setbacks and detours?

Not immediately. The journey was extremely difficult. However, we didn’t want to go back to Senegal. We tried to return to Tunisia instead. After 19 days, we arrived at Kilometre 33 in Tunisia. My legs were badly swollen and I couldn’t walk, so I had to stay in bed for two days. One day, my family sent me a photo of my mother, and I could see that she had undergone a drastic physical change. Seeing that touched me deeply and I then realised how badly my departure was affecting my family. Reluctantly, I decided to return to Senegal. I contacted the International Organisation for Migration (IOM) to express my desire to return. A team came to pick me up and took me to a city. The IOM provided me with comfortable hotel accommodation in the capital for two months. On 23 June 2024, I was informed by a team that I would be returning to Senegal. The young Senegalese man who had travelled with me remained in Tunisia, while my friend travelled to Spain via Algeria. I returned to Senegal a few months ago. My family situation remains precarious and returning home is not a solution to all my problems. However, IOM has helped me enormously, particularly through psychological support and vocational training. I currently work with my older brother in a clothing shop in Joal-Fadiouth. I also hope to start my own business one day.